Know Your Knit: A Guide to Heritage Knitwear | Vintage Clothing

Do you know your Cowichan knit from your Aran? Your nordic knit from your Fair Isle?

Heritage knitwear is making a comeback in the fashion world, with vintage knitwear being a key element of many current trends. From Cowichan to Aran, Argyle to Fair Isle, and Nordic knits, there is so much choice when it comes to heritage knitwearWe think it’s time to get to know which one is which! 

What is Cowichan knitwear?

Collage of 3 images. Left image is of a blonde woman standing on a beach with bare legs wearing a chunky knit cream and black jumper. Central image is in black and white and features a woman in a doorway holding up a patterned, chunky knit zipped cardigan. The right image is black and white and shows 3 women in a line with a child in front all wearing chunky knit patterned jumper and standing on a patch of grass.

Left: Marilyn Monroe, 1962 Centre: Cowichan woman, 

 

Cowichan knitwear is a type of knitwear that originated in the Cowichan Valley of Vancouver Island, British Columbia. They are made from thick, warm wool and are known for their distinctive cable patterns. Cowichan sweaters often feature a central zip with a curled collar. 

The vintage knitwear type was originally made by the Cowichan people, who used the knitwear to keep warm during the harsh Pacific Northwest winters. Today, Cowichan knitwear is considered a classic type of heritage knitwear and is sought after for its warmth and durability. 

We love Cowichan knitwear here at ROKIT. We are always looking for the most rare and fun patterned knitwear there is. It can be worn over vintage denim, as a warming layer for the coldest days or as an autumn knitted jacket. 


What is Aran Knitwear?

Collage of two images. Left image shows blonde woman on boat wearing a cream Aran knit jumper with sunglasses on and white trousers pulling an oar of the boat. Background is a hilly town. Right image is a black and white image of two parents and their child all in matching Aran knit jumpers.

Left: Grace Kelly wearing an Aran knit jumper Right: Knitting pattern c.1960s

Aran knitwear is steeped in tradition and culture. Most often woven in wool, Aran jumpers are characterised by their deep knitted textures made up of cable knit patterns and notably found in off-white.

Originating from the Aran Islands, a group of three islands located off the west coast of Ireland, Aran knitwear is a true vintage knit as the knitting techniques used have been passed down for centuries. Each knit (pattern) will have it’s own significance (relating to name/ clan) as they are made up of Aran stitches and personal celtic knotwork. Aran jumpers were popular with fishermans, hence its other name the Fisherman jumper, as they were resistant to water. In the 1950s, the Hollywood star Grace Kelly helped to popularise the jumper as a fashion piece rather than just a practical item.

Aran jumpers are a big part of ROKIT’s vintage knitwear collection. Not only does the vintage jumpers champion British traditions but they are also an effortless style piece to create an iconic winter look. Everyone needs an Aran in their wardrobe, we think.


What is Fair Isle Knitwear?

Collage of two images. Left image is a coloured painted portrait featuring a white man wearing a colourful Fair Isle jumper, patterned flat cap and holding a small dog in his right arm. Image to the right depicts a white man and a woman sat close together wearing similar neutral coloured Fair Isle jumpers with a backdrop of greenery.

Left: Prince of Wales in Fair Isle, 1936 Right: Fair Isle Knitting Pattern cover, c. 1980s

Fair Isle knits are one of the most recognisable knitwear types. Fair Isle jumpers, for example, feature intricate geometric patterns and designs in multiple colours. Made popular in the 1920s through the influence of Edward VIII (the abdicated king of England), there have been multiple versions of fair isle knits from different designs to using polyester instead of wool. 

A Fair Isle sweater is made using Fair Isle technique that creates rows of shapes inspired by nature. The vintage knitwear type is named after one of the Shetland Islands, found between Scotland and Norway, and refers to the specific knitting technique that originated there. Traditional fair isle sweaters feature a limited palette of 5 colours throughout the whole jumper.

This traditional knitted sweater is a distinctive style statement. With loads of patterns and colours to choose from, there is always going to be something unique to you. Especially when you’re browsing through vintage knitwear.


What is an Argyle knit?

Collage of two images. Central image shows 3 people, man in centre and two women to his side, looking into the distance wearing classic golfer attire made up of Argyle socks and argyle knitted vest and jumper. Backdrop of an urban building block. Right image is a sepia toned image of a white woman with her hand on hip and right food resting on a stone wearing yellow argyle jumper and matching socks. Backdrop is a bricked tunnel.

Left: Pringle advert, c.1960s Right: unknown, c.1960s

Argyle knitwear is associated most notably with the Argyle pattern. Similar to Scottish tartan, argyle is a distinctive patterned knit made up of a repetition of diamond shapes in contrasting colours.

The knitted Argyle pattern can be traced back to at least the 17th century, to the tartan of Argyll in the highlands of Scotland, and featured on kilts, plaids and pattern socks. In the 1920s, the iconic argyle sweater was designed by Pringle of Scotland. Worn by royals like the Duke of Windsor in the 20s, Mod style, the argyle sweater crossed boundaries of fashion. 

The versatility of argyle jumpers makes it an easy style option for all year round. Whether you’re looking for a more preppy look or a rebellious Mod look, the argyle knit can tie a look together. 

What is Nordic / Norweigan Knitwear? 

Collage of two images showing Nordic Knitted Jumpers. Left image shows a white woman with brown hair standing with hands on hips wearing a black and white Nordic knt with colourful rimming.  Right image is a magazine clipping with an image of 4 women skiiers wearing Dale of Norway knitwear

Left: Unknown, c.1960s Right: Dale of Norway, 1956

The term has been widely used with diamonds, snowflakes and zigzags making up much of what we now call Nordic or Norweigan Knitwear. 

Nordic knitting dates back to the 15th and 16th century in Norway. Clothing items in nordic patterns included mittens as well as knitted sweaters. The traditional Nordic patterned jumpers surfaced as a fashion trend in the mid-20th century with the growth of ski wear. In 1956, Dale of Norway, a popular knitwear brand which makes 100% wool sweaters, became the official brand of the National Norwegian Alpine Ski Team.

Whether dressed up or down, Norwegian sweaters, cardigans and knitted vests are a core part of modern winter clothing and a large part of ROKIT’s vintage clothing collection. 

How to look after Heritage Knitwear?

Love for heritage knitwear is here to stay. The different knits have been a central part of winter wear and ski wear for decades and now a signature part of emerging trends like Grandad / Grandma chic and Gorpcore.

To make the most of your knitted sweaters, it’s important to know how to look after heritage vintage knitwear:

  • Washing machines are not friends of any 100% wool sweaters
  • Only wash when absolutely necessary (smelly armpits and that) -- sponge clean or steam to avoid regular washing
  • Store your knits folded in a drawer
  • To avoid moths, make little bags of dried lavender and store sealed over summer to avoid moths. Alternatively, add drops of essential oil to paper towels or scrap fabric and store with the jumpers
  • Sometimes you just cannot avoid moths munching on your knitted jumpers, so mending and patching is the only way. Consider purposeful darning and make a feature of your repair

Whether you're a fan of vintage clothing, men's or women's vintage clothing, knit sweaters, or just want to know more about the clothes you wear, I hope we can agree that heritage knitwear is where it’s at. 

 

ROKIT is proud to feature Cowichan, Aran, and Fair Isle knitwear in its vintage knitwear collection, offering unique and classic style statements for any winter wardrobe.

 

REFERENCES:

Cowichan Sweater, The Canadian Encyclopedia

Iconic Argyle, Pringle of Scotland


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