LFW AW12: Minimalists V Maximalists

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Thomas Tait, Aquascutum, J. JS Lee, Simone Rocha and newcomers Yifang Wan and Charlie May.
Sister by Sibling, Fam Irvoll and Vauxhall Fashion Scout "One to Watch" Nova Chiu, with a more grown up take on piling it all on at Moschino Cheap &Chic, Basso & Brooke and Louise Gray.

This autumn/winter seems a game of two halves if London Fashion Week is anything to go by. The mini vs maxi debate has long raged on planet fashion but this time we're talking minimalism vs maximalism rather than skirt lengths.

Simplicity was key at Thomas Tait, Aquascutum, J. JS Lee, Simone Rocha and newcomers Yifang Wan and Charlie May...

Wunderkind of the season Thomas Tait proved himself worthy of all the fash-pack fawning with a collection of lithe, powerful cuts, their simplicity of form accented by quirky fabrics like canary yellow leather and green velvet. Fave pieces: the leather trousers and strangulating ribbed rubber polo necks.

Aquascutum was both rebellious and traditional - heritage wools and its classic military styling were teamed with modern leather and toughened up with exposed zips.

There was white, white and more white over at J. JS Lee, whose straight cut tunics were layered one on top of the other and teamed with white rubber shoes which were one part spaceman to two parts hospital orderly.

Simone Rocha's unfussy ostentation came in the form of hi-shine silver leather in classic, neat shapes, teamed with snow white sharp collars and mannish shoes.

Over at the Central St Martins MA show Yifang Wan had honed an oriental-inspired collection with kimono shapes in a muted palette of slate and navy with a third dimension added by angula wood block obi belts.

CHARLIE MAY AW12 from Polymath films on Vimeo.

Over at camp maximalism colour, print, texture and generally crazy shit reigned supreme with tongue in cheek collections from Sister by Sibling, Fam Irvoll and Vauxhall Fashion Scout "One to Watch" Nova Chiu, with a more grown up take on piling it all on at Moschino Cheap &Chic, Basso & Brooke and Louise Gray...

At Moschino Cheap & Chic coquettish shapes with humorous cosmetic prints and multicoloured pastel fur with sixties beehive hair were playful yet refined.

Basso & Brooke was a lesson in dizzying elegance: grown-up cuts in a slew of geometric prints and colours were the order of the day.

Sister by Sibling pushed the boundaries with sequinned and pom pom laden balaclavas, bright animal print, cartoonish motifs and Cookie Monster-esque blue faux fur.

Punk mohicans sat atop models' hair over at Louis Gray, whose unique combinations of digital prints (QR code go-go boots, anyone?) and riotous colour were a sight to behold.

Norwegian-born Fam Irvoll was inspired by 80s cartoons and Ghostbusters to craft a collection accented with slime green and spooky purple, cartoon references abounded in her playful pieces.

Summer's not even here yet and now we're wishing it would stay cold enough all year round to pile on LFW AW12's offerings!

Check back tomorrow for more LFW ramblings and the low down from Jackie of Platform Princess and Kit of Style Slicker!